6 Steps To Change Canister Type Oil Filter (Lexus ES350)

Overview

I will show you 6 precise and concise steps to change a canister type of oil filter. I will also share with you some tips to make the filter change easy. To demo the steps, as an example I use the oil filter for a Lexus ES350 2014.

Alternative Methods

There is more than one way to approach this task. Here are the most common methods, ranked by difficulty and cost.

Traditional Drain Method

Drive onto ramps or use jack stands, locate the drain plug, remove it, drain oil into a catch pan, replace filter, refill.

Difficulty: Intermediate
Estimated Cost: $25-$50 for oil and filter
Notes: Most thorough drain; requires getting under the car

Oil Extractor/Vacuum Method

Use a hand pump or electric extractor to pull oil through the dipstick tube without getting under the vehicle.

Difficulty: Beginner
Estimated Cost: $30-$60 for extractor + oil
Notes: No need to lift the car; slightly less complete drain

Quick Lube Service

Drive into a quick-lube shop for a full-service oil change completed in 15-30 minutes.

Difficulty: Beginner-friendly
Estimated Cost: $40-$100
Notes: Fast and convenient; may upsell unnecessary services

Tips and Common Mistakes

Avoid these pitfalls and use these tips to get the job done right the first time.

Always warm the engine for 2-3 minutes before draining — warm oil flows out more completely.
Use the oil weight and type specified in your owner’s manual, not what is cheapest on the shelf.
Hand-tighten the oil filter — over-tightening makes it nearly impossible to remove next time.
Double-check the drain plug torque after refilling to prevent leaks.
Run the engine for 30 seconds after refilling, then recheck the oil level — it will drop as the filter fills.
Never mix conventional and synthetic oil types unless your manual specifically allows it.
Keep a drain pan under the vehicle for 10 extra minutes — the last drops always come out slowly.
Dispose of used oil properly at any auto parts store — they accept it for free.

Tools and Materials

Item	Estimated Cost
Engine oil (4-6 quarts)	$20-$40
Oil filter	$5-$15
Oil drain pan	$8-$15
Socket wrench or oil filter wrench	$5-$20
Funnel	$3-$5
Rags or shop towels	$5-$10
Ramps or jack and jack stands	$25-$80
Nitrile gloves	$5-$10

When to Take It to a Mechanic

While oil changes are one of the simplest DIY maintenance tasks, consult a mechanic if:

The oil looks milky or foamy — this can indicate coolant mixing with oil due to a blown head gasket.
You find metal shavings on the drain plug — internal engine wear may be occurring and needs investigation.
The oil pressure light comes on even after a fresh change — the oil pump, pressure sensor, or internal passages may be failing.
You cannot locate or access the drain plug — some modern vehicles have underbody panels that require special tools.
The vehicle burns oil rapidly (needing top-offs between changes) — piston rings or valve seals may need attention.

Step-by-Step Guide

Follow these steps carefully for a successful result.

Step 1: Prepare the Vehicle

Drive the car for 3-5 minutes to warm the engine oil — warm oil drains more completely. Park on a level surface, turn off the engine, and engage the parking brake. Pop the hood and locate the oil fill cap on top of the engine; remove it to allow air flow during draining.

Step 2: Access the Drain Plug

If your vehicle sits low, drive it onto ramps or lift it with a floor jack and secure it on jack stands. Locate the oil drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. Place your drain pan directly below it, slightly toward the rear since oil will arc outward as it flows.

Step 3: Drain the Old Oil

Using the correct socket (typically 14mm, 15mm, or 17mm), loosen the drain plug counterclockwise. As it comes loose, use your fingers for the final turns so the plug does not fall into the drain pan. Let the oil drain fully for at least 10 minutes. While draining, inspect the drain plug washer — replace it if it is crushed or damaged.

Step 4: Replace the Oil Filter

Locate the oil filter (top-mounted cartridge or spin-on, depending on your vehicle). Remove the old filter using an oil filter wrench if needed. Apply a thin film of new oil to the gasket of the new filter. Install the new filter hand-tight — do not over-tighten. If your vehicle uses a cartridge filter, replace the O-ring and seat it properly in the housing.

Step 5: Refill and Check

Reinstall the drain plug and tighten to the manufacturer’s torque spec. Pour the correct amount and type of oil through the fill cap (consult your manual for capacity and grade). Start the engine and let it idle for 30 seconds, then turn it off. Wait 2 minutes and check the dipstick — add oil if the level is below the full mark. Check under the vehicle for leaks around the drain plug and filter.

Safety Precautions

Used motor oil is a carcinogen — wear nitrile gloves and avoid prolonged skin contact.
Hot engine oil can cause severe burns — let the engine cool enough that the oil is warm but not scalding.
Never dispose of used oil down a drain, on the ground, or in household trash — take it to a recycling center.
Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling oil vapors.
Keep rags and absorbent material nearby for spill cleanup.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I change my oil?

Follow your owner’s manual — modern vehicles with synthetic oil can go 7,500 to 10,000 miles between changes. Older vehicles using conventional oil typically need changes every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Severe driving conditions (towing, dusty roads, extreme temperatures) may require more frequent changes.

Can I switch from conventional to synthetic oil?

Yes, you can switch to synthetic oil at any time on virtually any engine. Synthetic oil provides better protection at extreme temperatures and longer change intervals. You do not need to flush the engine first — simply drain the old oil and fill with synthetic at your next change.

What happens if I use the wrong oil weight?

Using a slightly different weight for a single change usually will not cause immediate damage, but it is not recommended long-term. Too thick an oil increases fuel consumption and can starve components during cold starts. Too thin an oil may not provide adequate protection under load or heat.

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This article was originally published on cartrek.com on 2016-06-30. Content has been updated and expanded for 2026.