Replacing Brake Pad for Toyota 4Runner

Overview

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wchzwcqclC0

Changing Brake Pad for Toyota 4Runner.

don’t touch the 4 bolts if you are just replacing the brake pads. If you loosen the bolts, the brake fluid will start leaking.
takes out the two pins.
use a clamp to press the pad so that there is more gap.
after the maximum gap is created, take out the old pad and replace it with a new pad.
there are two pads (a pair) each side. The further away pad has the small metal to scratch so that you can hear the noise when the brake pad is worn out. The pad closer to you does not have this small metal.

Alternative Methods

There is more than one way to approach this task. Here are the most common methods, ranked by difficulty and cost.

Professional Brake Service

Take your vehicle to a certified brake specialist who can inspect the full system including rotors, calipers, and hydraulic lines.

Difficulty: Beginner-friendly
Estimated Cost: $150-$400 per axle
Notes: Guarantees proper torque specs and brake fluid bleeding

DIY with Jack Stands

Lift the vehicle on jack stands, remove the wheel, and replace pads following manufacturer specs.

Difficulty: Intermediate
Estimated Cost: $30-$80 for pads
Notes: Requires basic tools and mechanical confidence

Mobile Mechanic Service

Hire a mobile mechanic who comes to your location with all necessary tools and parts.

Difficulty: Beginner-friendly
Estimated Cost: $100-$250
Notes: Convenient but verify technician credentials

Tips and Common Mistakes

Avoid these pitfalls and use these tips to get the job done right the first time.

Always replace brake pads in pairs — both sides of the same axle — for even braking.
Use a C-clamp or brake caliper piston tool to compress the caliper piston before installing new pads.
Open the brake fluid reservoir cap before compressing the piston to prevent pressure buildup.
Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose — support it with a wire or bungee cord.
Apply brake grease to the back of the pads and the slide pins, but never on the friction surface.
Bed in new brake pads by making 10-15 moderate stops from 35 mph without coming to a complete stop.
Check your brake rotors for minimum thickness — worn rotors reduce braking performance even with new pads.

Tools and Materials

Item	Estimated Cost
Brake pads (per axle set)	$25-$80
C-clamp or caliper piston tool	$10-$25
Socket wrench set (metric/SAE)	$20-$60
Jack and jack stands	$30-$80
Brake parts cleaner spray	$5-$8
Brake caliper grease	$5-$10
Torque wrench	$25-$50
Wire or bungee cord (caliper support)	$2-$5

When to Take It to a Mechanic

If you notice any of the following, skip the DIY route and see a professional immediately:

Brake pedal goes to the floor — this may indicate a hydraulic leak or master cylinder failure.
Vehicle pulls hard to one side when braking — could be a stuck caliper or uneven pad wear that requires caliper service.
Grinding metal-on-metal sound — the pads are completely worn and the rotors may need machining or replacement.
Brake warning light stays on after pad replacement — the sensor or ABS system may need professional diagnosis.
Spongy or soft pedal feel — air in the brake lines requires a full system bleed, which is difficult without a helper or vacuum bleeder.

Video Tutorial

For the full video tutorial, visit Genius Asian.

Step-by-Step Guide

Follow these steps carefully for a successful result.

Step 1: Gather Your Tools and Parts

Before starting, make sure you have all the tools listed in the Tools and Materials section above. Confirm the replacement brake pads match your vehicle’s make, model, and year. Lay out a clean work surface and keep a container ready for any brake fluid that may drip during the process.

Step 2: Safely Raise the Vehicle

Park on a flat, level surface and engage the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts on the target wheel by a quarter turn before lifting. Position the floor jack under the vehicle’s designated jack point (consult your owner’s manual for the exact location), raise the vehicle until the wheel clears the ground, and place a jack stand under the frame for safety. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

Step 3: Remove the Wheel and Inspect

Finish removing the lug nuts and pull the wheel off. Visually inspect the brake rotor for scoring, grooves, or uneven wear. Check the caliper and brake line for leaks or damage. Take a photo of the current setup for reference during reassembly.

Step 4: Remove the Caliper and Old Pads

Locate the caliper slide pin bolts (usually 12mm or 14mm). Remove them and carefully slide the caliper off the rotor. Support the caliper with a wire hanger or bungee cord — never let it hang by the brake hose. Pull out the old brake pads and note their orientation.

Step 5: Install New Pads and Reassemble

Use a C-clamp or caliper piston tool to push the caliper piston back into its bore. Insert the new pads in the correct orientation (the pad with the wear indicator goes on the inner side). Slide the caliper back over the new pads and tighten the slide pin bolts to the manufacturer’s torque specification. Reinstall the wheel, hand-tighten the lug nuts, lower the vehicle, and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 6: Test Your Brakes

Before driving, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. Check the brake fluid reservoir and top off if needed. Take a slow test drive in a safe area, making gentle stops to confirm proper function. Bed in the new pads by performing 10-15 moderate stops from 35 mph.

Safety Precautions

Always use jack stands — never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
Wear safety glasses to protect against brake dust, which may contain harmful particles.
Brake fluid is corrosive — if it contacts paint, wash it off immediately with water.
Never compress the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.
Properly dispose of old brake pads and rotors — some contain trace amounts of hazardous materials.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I replace my brake pads?

Most brake pads last 30,000 to 70,000 miles depending on driving habits, vehicle weight, and pad material. City driving with frequent stops wears pads faster than highway driving. Listen for a high-pitched squealing sound — that is the wear indicator telling you replacement is due.

Can I replace just the front or rear pads?

Yes, you can replace one axle at a time. However, always replace both sides of the same axle together. If the front pads are worn, replace both left and right front pads. Replacing only one side causes uneven braking and can pull the vehicle to one side.

Do I need to replace the rotors when I change the pads?

Not always. Measure the rotor thickness with a micrometer and compare it to the minimum thickness stamped on the rotor. If the rotors are above minimum thickness and have no deep grooves or scoring, they can be reused. If they are below minimum or badly scored, replace them.

Continue learning with these related guides:

This article was originally published on cartrek.com on 2012-04-02. Content has been updated and expanded for 2026.